Way back in February, we dropped a form in the mail to the US Forest Service. This form was asking for a permit to hike the Enchantment Lakes. It’s not easy to get a permit as this is one of the most pursued hiking zones of the Pacific Northwest. Since we really wanted to see this area, and hopefully when the larches were changing color, we gave them a three-week window and told them to pick a time that fit. You can get very specific with dates and we figured our best bet was to be open.
About six weeks later we had our dates: October 4-7. After much deliberation we decided to enter through Colchuck and exit through Snow Lake. A good overview of the area and a small map can be found here on the Seattle-PI website. Along for company we had Bryan’s friend Adam Haynes and his sister, Sara.
Camping at the foot of Colchuck Glacier's outpouring of boulders
Our first day’s hike brought us to Colchuck Lake, elevation 5,570′. We arrived and were able to set up camp while still daylight, though the sun had dipped behind Colchuck Peak by 3pm. Having snowed about 5″ the night before, we had a very chilly afternoon and evening and were in our tents for warmth by 7:30pm. Loved our campsite though – Adam & Bryan found it – sheltered by large boulders, we were somewhat protected from the wind and also from the passers-by. It was a small jump off the main trail, and the other campsites around the lake were not too great even though you might think we’re crazy for sleeping in the boulder field.
Our first view of Aasgard Pass, seen from the north-east end of Colchuck Lake.
Morning meant fueling up for our ascent up Aasgard Pass, over 2000′ elevation gain in 0.9 miles. If it were earlier in the season we would have needed ice axes and crampons, this steep mountaineering slope gets only a few minutes of sunshine each day and is a treacherous feat to climb. Since we were hiking in early October, there was still plenty of snow but we encountered very little ice. It was a persistent, long climb, but not too technical (well, it was in a couple spots) and with our even-paced approach it wasn’t too bad.
We left our camp around 10am and figure that from our campsite to the top of Aasgard was around 3 hours. At the top of the pass is a beautiful view of Mt Baker to the north, along with other peaks we couldn’t name, and then of course the Upper Enchantment Lakes. The Upper Enchantments were a beautiful green-blue water but the landscape is pretty barren. Not much in the way of trees, as it was still a glacier up there less than 100 years ago, but beautiful none-the-less. Did I mention it was sunny? Yes, we got to eat lunch and revive our energy under a blue sky.
From Isolation Lake (the one at the top of the pass), we hiked another couple miles down past Perfection Lake and Inspiration Lake, to find camp down near Sprite Lake. The hike through this area went from barren, beautiful rock figures, to a high alpine land with trees in no time. This does not mean forest, but it does mean we had some bits of color to look at among all the blandly grey rocks.
The larches (also known as tamaracks, I am pretty sure) were somewhere in the middle of changing color. They weren’t the bright goldenrod we were hoping to find, but a few yellow ones were here and there. Mostly they were some shade of chartreuse, not yet embracing their full fall colors.
Hiking around Inspiration Lake
On the bank of Leprechaun Lake, looking toward Prusik Peak
Technical step above Lake Viviane.
Following cairns in the Upper Enchantments
Camping at Sprite Lake was wonderful. The freezing level had gone back up, way up above us, so we were able to lay out on boulders at night and look at the clear starry sky and watch the moon rise – without freezing ourselves. Getting out of bed is so much easier when you’re not needing ALL of your layers on while sleeping. Which was the case the night before.
Day 3, Tuesday: split interest in the team lead Adam & Sara off to hike over Prusik Peak to explore Shield Lake, with Bryan & Melissa heading down to Snow and Nada Lakes – but taking our time. I think our estimated mileage to cover was around 6+ miles, and we wanted to savor our last hours in this beautiful land. We knew that after Lake Viviane, we’d be back to “regular” forest and soon missing this gorgeous landscape.
Winding down around Leprechaun Lake was our favorite. This would definitely be where we camped next time, if there ever is a next time. Tiny trees, winding paths, huge smooth rock landscape and emerald green water — we could see why these lakes were “enchanted” from the shores of Leprechaun. From there, the trail wound down to Viviane Lake (the one that Prusik Peak comes jutting out of so gallantly), and here we got hit with really strong winds. We were on an especially technical part of the trail where you are carefully placing your foot in well-defined places with a 300′-or-so drop to your left. There was snow on the trail and when this wind kicked up we leaned into the rock until it passed. You could hear the wind coming – a high, strong howling noise – the anticipation was appreciated.
From Viviane Lake, you’re just heading down this seemingly endless trail that twists and turns and you’re doing all sorts of climbing maneuvers. I couldn’t imagine coming up that way – it would have been so much work and you can’t see the top until you’re there. The view isn’t that much to write about, either.
Nada Lake - we camped at the very far end, a little past where you see the lake dip into the trees.
Around 4pm we made it to our campsite on the very far edge of Nada Lake. We figured that with another 5 or 6 miles to go on Wednesday, being as close to our exit as possible would be a good thing. Adam and Sarah arrived about two hours later, the wind kicked up so hard that it wasn’t fun to hang out in the dusty air, so we were in bed around 8pm.
There you have it: our four-day adventure through the Enchantments. Our muscles and joints have recovered by now 
